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Mosby's
Rangers: Part 3: The Uniforms of Mosby's Rangers: Overview & Conclusions (DRAFT)
The largest single collection of wartime images of Mosby's men is the book, Mosby's Rangers, written by one of his original 15 recruits, James J. Williamson of Company A and published in 1896. In this work, Williamson obtained copies of as many pictures of the men as he could. This task was made somewhat simpler by the active program of reunions which the company organized (Mosby himself attended only one and refused to go to the others.) Although several of these pictures are post-war or pre-war and therefore show the individuals in civilian clothes, the book contains 93 images of the officers and men of the battalion (including three of Mosby himself), which is a significant enough number from which to draw some basic, broad conclusions. Unfortunately, any analysis of these photographs is hampered somewhat by the fact that several of the photographs are cut off at waist or mid-chest height, so it is hard to tell whether some coats are frocks or shells. Nonetheless, there are a sufficient number of full length and 3/4 length photographs that at least some educated guesses might be made. The following is a cursory study based wholly on the images in the Williamson book. This should and will, be refined by further study of surviving uniforms in museums and private collections at some later date. In addition, the general conclusions below will be supported by a statistical analysis (coming soon) of the images in the Williamson book, e.g. giving an exact count of the number of frock coats vs. shell jackets, uniforms with and without collar facings, hat types, etc. Overview: The uniform of Mosby's men is largely a combination of the following influences: 1. The personal style of JEB Stuart and of John Singleton Mosby himself. Sartorially, Mosby might be described in many ways as a JEB Stuart "wannabee." Mosby's men, on the other hand, dressed like Mosby "wannabees" One theme that comes through strongly in looking at the uniforms of both the officers and privates is that there was a strong sense of unit identification, a sense of being separate, apart and special. They appear as much as a clique of "cool guys" as they do a military unit. (see group identity /fads section, below) Stuart/Mosby wannabee characteristics include: lots of JEB Stuart-type double breasted shell jackets, hats with ostrich plumes, low crowned medium brim hats such as that now offered by reproduction hatters as the "Mosby" hat, high topped boots with trowsers stuffed into the boots and capes on some of the men. 2. Very little difference between the uniforms of officers and enlisted men: Although the images in the Williamson book show a slight bias toward depictions of officers and NCOs as opposed to privates, a significant proportion of the enlisted men depicted as wearing frock coats. Interestingly, many are shown in double breasted frock coats, of a style more commonly worn by officers. The enlisted man's frock coat (usually single breasted) was only standard enlisted issue in early war. By late war, frock coats were mostly worn by officers. This suggests a combination of possibilities: some of these may have been early war issue but still functional because of the comparatively lighter wear that would result from riding a couple of raids each week but hiding out in civilian clothes the rest of the time as opposed to being in uniform constantly on campaign or in garrison. Another possibility is that some of the men were able to get custom-tailored frock coats either because they had the economic means to hire a tailor because of their share of the Yankee plunder or because the ladies of the households where they were being sheltered offered to sew for them. In fact, it is documented that a number of the men of the command patronised a "secesh" tailor in Baltimore. In Ranger John Munson's memoirs (see bibliography) he recounts the stir that his new, rather gaudy tailor made uniform caused in Richmond, following the Greenback Raid. 3. Contrasting facings: Branch of service trim, (yellow/buff for cavalry, light blue for infantry, red for artillery) although specified in the army manuals, was comparatively rare in all but the earliest issued enlisteduniforms, and usually only expressed itself in rank insignia in later war and in officers uniforms. (Although there are several documented cases with original uniforms of soldiers cutting the facings off of earlier jackets and sewing them on to their newly issued plain jackets). In contrast to the rest of the army, a significant proportion of Mosby's men appear to have contrasting collar and cuff facings regardless of whether they are officers, NCO's or enlisted men. Some of these appear to be the cavalry's yellow/buff facings but most appear to be the black facings adopted by partisan ranger units. Mosby himself was not particularly fond of yellow/buff facings (although he DID have some jackets made this way) and was criticized when still in the First Virginia Cavalry for adopting the red trim of the artillery (he just thought red LOOKED better.) 4. Individualism and Civilian Influence: Confederate "uniforms" are generally more individualistic than their Union counterparts, both because of practical considerations of economics and supply lines but also, it can be argued, because of a different cultural attitude in the South. This was somewhat more pronounced among Mosby's men, quite possibly because of their need to have civilian clothing while being hidden among the general population, but also probably because of the opportunity while living among civilians to have items made (many of these men were in their own neighborhoods and near their own families). Another possible source of items such as civilian hats and waistcoats is the various Union sutlers whose wagons they were able to plunder. Underpinning all of this, of course, is the broader influence of the individualistic attitude of the group as a whole and a sense of being different from the regular army. 5. Group Identity / Fads: Many of the men in Mosby's command were mere teenagers. Having rather a lot of money in their pockets -- the spoils of various raids -- and a predispositoin to be dandies, the younger men in the unit went in for the latest fashions. One common characteristic among the younger men was a fondness for extremely small and narrow neckties, almost a cross between a ladies ornamental bow and a later Wild West style or "Colonel Sanders" narrow string tie. This was a very new style, just coming in among trendier younger men. Men's ties of the era were generally wide, with a barrel knot in front, either the sort that one tied themselves or "cheater" ties that were pre-tied and fastened in the back, and the ties seen on a large proportion of Mosby's men are significantly different than this usual style. In most of the photographs, only the top portion of the tie is visible, but in one photograph (of one of the men executed by Custer) the whole of the tie shows under an open jacket and it does have long string a'la Colonel Sanders. 6. The Confederate Supply System: All of the above factors aside, a significant proportion of the men nonetheless appear to be wearing the Richmond Depot type nine button single breasted shell jacket, generally the later war version without epaulettes or belt loops. Some of these appear to be made from the coarse jeancloth generally used by the Richmond Depot and some appear to be in finer textured fabric like a broadcloth. The men did indeed receive some standard CS issue clothing, as there are surving clothing rolls from 1864, cited in Hugh Keen and Horace Mewborn's regimental history, part of the M.E. Howard series (see bookstore and bibliography sections) (Note: We have not yet had a chance to examine this primary sources.) Are these latter some of the Peter Tait jackets, made in Ireland of English cloth and shipped in late war or are they versions of the Richmond Depot shell jacket made by local tailors or seamstresses? (Note: Need to have someone with more expertise take a look at the pictures). Buttons are hard to see in the pictures, but appear to be either Virginia buttons, Cavalry branch buttons or the sort of eagle buttons used by headquarters staff. Buttons appear to be in a variety of styles and sizes and on two photographs the buttons appear to be black or darkened in some way -- possibly fabric covered? Or are they Goodyear 1851 patent black rubber? 7. Captured Union Items: If any group of soldiers had first crack at captured Union items, Mosby's men were the ones. In particular, they are documented as having availed themselves of shipments of Federal cavalry boots on more than one occasion -- one famous example was young French Dulany, one of Mosby's men who with Mosby kidnapped his father, Col. Dulaney, who was the military aide to the Federally appointed Governor of Virginia. Col. Dulaney, half in pity, half in mockery noted that Confederates were usually short of shoes and offered his son the pick of his closet. French then displayed his brand spanking new pair of Yankee cavalry boots. Mosby's men were also fond of captured Union McClellan saddles. The Confederacy had started copying the McClellan pattern in 1863, as it was easier on the horses' backs than the Jenifer and other saddles more commonly used by the South in early war. This became a more important consideration as the horses became thinner as supplies were tight and the war continued. With this easy access to Union goods, one would assume a higher proportion of sky blue kersey Federal trowsers than among the CSA soldiery as a whole. This is hard to determine as so many of the photographs are cut off at waist height or are group shots where the trowsers of those in back are hidden by those in the front of the picture. However, in the pictures where the trowsers are visible, they generally either (1) broadly match the jacket and appear to be gray or butternut (2) are darker and look to be civilian trowsers or (3) are extremely light and appear to be either beige or white. Many of these appear to be in coarser fabrics and could be CSA issue. On the other hand, in the black and white photography of the era, shades of blue photographed significantly lighter than they were in real life and light blue photographed as almost white (orange and red photographed as black) so it is possible that these lighter trowsers could be captured Union issue. In
one photograph, two of the men are wearing dark
waistcoats, made in the high necked, brass-buttoned
military style rather than the usual shawl collared
civilian style. From the photograph, these could be
either black, dark green, dark red or navy blue. If
the latter, they could be captured Federal issue.
The button type is not discernable, but it is
probable that they would have exchanged USA buttons
for some form of Confederate issue or for plain
brass.
Uniforms & Equipment of the 43rd Battalion: Part
2: The
Influence of JEB Stuart Part
4: Uniforms:
Individual Men Part
5: Arms
and Accoutrements Part
6: Uniform
& Equipment Guidelines for 43rd
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